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TIME: Almanac 1990
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1990 Time Magazine Compact Almanac, The (1991)(Time).iso
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1990-09-17
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HEALTH & FITNESS, Page 71Cookies the Heart Can LoveBowing to consumers, foodmakers are abandoning tropical oils
As every cook knows, tinkering with a favorite recipe can bring
grunts of disapproval from family and friends. For a food company,
such tampering invites an even greater disaster: plummeting sales.
Today, though, food manufacturers are busily reformulating some of
their most popular products. Early this month, Keebler became the
fourth major company since last fall -- joining Pepperidge Farm,
Kellogg and Sunshine Biscuits -- to announce a switch in
ingredients. The change: replacing highly saturated tropical oils
with less saturated fats.
The move, which affects such items as Kellogg's Cracklin' Oat
Bran cereal, Keebler's Soft Batch cookies, Pepperidge Farm's
Goldfish crackers and Sunshine's Hydrox cookies, is prompted by
health considerations -- and rising consumer pressure.
Manufacturers have long been partial to the balmy-sounding
vegetable oils -- coconut, palm-kernel and palm -- mainly because
they impart a nongreasy taste and texture and extend the shelf
life of products. But they are also high in saturated fat, the
prime booster of blood-cholesterol levels. Coconut oil contains
92% saturated fat, palm-kernel oil 86% and palm oil 51%. In
comparison, the damaging fat makes up only 27% of cottonseed oil,
15% of soybean oil and 13% of corn oil.
Consumer advocates have been campaigning in recent years to
get companies to eliminate tropical oils. Last fall Phil Sokolof,
founder of the National Heart Savers Association, fired the
strongest salvo yet in the ongoing battle. He began placing
full-page ads in leading newspapers lambasting U.S. food processors
for "the Poisoning of America" and featuring photos of their
offending products. Sokolof, 66, a building-materials manufacturer
in Omaha who suffered a heart attack 22 years ago, has spent $2
million so far on his crusade. Says he: "People feel like they have
been deceived by the food companies." Sokolof points out that
Procter & Gamble's Crisco is touted as having no cholesterol, but
it contains palm oil.
Although many of the manufacturers targeted by Sokolof are
revising their products, they all insist that the changes were long
in the works. Says Joseph Stewart, a vice president at Kellogg,
which in December began replacing the coconut oil in its Cracklin'
Oat Bran cereal with a blend of cottonseed and soybean oil: "It
would be impossible to do the R. and D. and change our ingredients
overnight." But he concedes that "Mr. Sokolof did create a sense
of urgency for us to move faster."
Some scientists think the public has become overanxious. "The
tropical oil issue is growing out of proportion," declares Basil
Rifkind, a cholesterol researcher at the National Heart, Lung and
Blood Institute. Roughly 15% of the calories in Americans' diets
now come from saturated fats. And tropical oils supply only about
a fourteenth of that amount. Americans might better worry about
cutting back on the two biggest sources of saturated fat: meat and
dairy products.